Frequently Asked Questions
- Why are my soaps drying with a white crust on the top?
- When mixing the soap mixture, it went through trace almost instantly and is now so thick I can't pour it into a mould.
- My soap feels grainy / is crumbly / won't set.
- My soap looks terrible. Can I still use it?
- I have used Titanium Dioxide and there are white spots in my soap.
- What should the pH of my soap be?
- I am having trouble getting my soap out of the mould. What can I do?
- Do our Green Living Australia, naturally coloured micas stain your skin?
- Do any of your cosmetic ingredients have nanoparticles?
If you have a question, or require help with your soap making, please call (07) 3808 2576 or email Valerie with as much information about your question or problem as possible at email@example.com If you send an email, please include your phone number so that Valerie can call you back to diagnose your problem.
Why are my soaps drying with a white crust on the top?
This is called soda ash and it is purely cosmetic. It can be caused by tiny amounts of unsaponified lye coming into contact with carbon dioxide or too much movement of air whilst the soap is in it’s initial hardening stage. If it is just a thin layer, you can simply wipe it off with a wet cloth. To help prevent this you can spray your soap with ethanol every 20 minutes for the first hour while it is hardening.
When mixing the soap mixture, it went through trace almost instantly and is now so thick I can't pour it into a mould.
This is called seizing and is generally caused by fragrance oils. Sometimes it just happens! The soap will still be usable but you just won’t be able to do the intricate swirl patterns you may have planned on. Scrape it out into moulds as best as you can. You may be surprised how it sets! If not, rebatch it. Grate the soap and then add it to a new soap batter.
My soap feels grainy / is crumbly / won't set.
There can be a few reasons for texture problems. Usually it is related to either inaccurate measuring of ingredients or temperature matching. For our recipes in The Beginners Soap Making Kits, the temperature range is 34° to 38°C. Oils and lye must be equalised within 5 degrees of each other.
My soap looks terrible. Can I still use it?
Even if soap looks terrible, it might still be great to use. Don’t throw it out! You just might like to rebatch it. Grate the soap and then add it to a new soap batter. It will look great!
I have used Titanium Dioxide and there are white spots in my soap.
Titanium Dioxide for soap making should be oil soluble but can behave a little like cornflour and leave lumps. Before adding to your soap, take out some of your oil mixture and make a paste, ensuring that there are no lumps of Titanium Dioxide.
What should the pH of my soap be?
A pH higher than 7 is considered basic or alkaline, and pH level of below 7 is acidic. Cold process soap is naturally alkaline with a pH of between 7 and 10. This range is considered safe to use. A pH above 10 would indicate that your soap is harsh, and may have free lye. lye that didn't react with your oils, and can burn your skin. This could happen if you made an error when measuring your ingredients.
I am having trouble getting my soap out of the mould. What can I do?
The addition of 1-2 tablespoons of sodium lactate to 1kg of soap batter will make the soap slide out of the moulds more easily without damaging the bars of soap.
Another solution is to pop your moulded soaps in the freezer for 30 minutes. This will firm them up and help them to pop them out of the mould more smoothly.
Do our Green Living Australia, naturally coloured micas stain your skin?
Our Micas are coloured with natural mineral oxides and do not stain your skin. They can be washed off with soap and water and are perfect for cosmetic making and soap colourings.
Do any of your cosmetic ingredients have nanoparticles?
None of the Green Living Australia ingredients for soap and cosmetics have any nanoparticles. This includes the clays, oxides and mica powders.
This is an evolving page, and more will be added soon.
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