Goat's milk soap Cambridge Rose swirl

Author: Valerie Pearson  |  Date Posted: 24 June 2014

Here at Green Living Australia we do soap making classes for beginners on a regular basis. One of the three soaps you lean in our class is a goat's milk soap.Ingredients:Goat's milk (pasteurized and frozen)  280 gramsSodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda) 120

Here at Green Living Australia we do soap making classes for beginners on a regular basis. One of the three soaps you lean in our class is a goat's milk soap. Ingredients:
  • Goat's milk (pasteurized and frozen)  280 grams
  • Sodium Hydroxide (Caustic Soda) 120 grams 
  • Coconut oil 240 grams
  • Sustainable Palm  oil 160 grams
  • Cold Pressed Australian Olive oil 400 grams Method:
  • Measure out and melt all of your oils together. See our cold process soap making directions for further information.
  • Follow the general directions for making your lye solution, being sure to follow all safety protocols.  
  • Milk used in soap making must be treated first, to prepare it for the soap making process.  You do this by ensuring that your milk is pasteurize. This is easy if you are purchasing your milk from the grocery store, as this milk will already be pasteurized.
  • The second thing you need to do to the milk is to freeze it. I pre-measure my milk into 280 grams batches and freeze it overnight, taking it out of the freezer in the morning and let it start to thaw out prior to my soap making. I want this milk to be cold and even still partially frozen, like a slushy, when I start to add the caustic soda.  
  • Place your goat's milk slushy into the container you are going to be using to make your lye solution and then place this his container into a sink of cold water and add ice cubes to the water. You want this iced water to reach up to the level of the milk in your container. Be careful not to add too much water, as your container will start to float and may spill.
  • Slowly add a small amount of your measured caustic soda to the milk.  As it starts to dissolve, it will start to heat up. Stir the solution gently and then wait for it to coll down. As a rule of thumb, you do not want the solution be get above 38 degrees C.
  • Add some more of your caustic soda, and following the same procedure, wait until the solution cools back down. Continue to do this until you have added all of your caustic soda to your milk.
  • The solution will change colour to a golden yellow as you continue to mix in your caustic soda. This is natural and does not mean that there is anything wrong. This colour will be transferred to your soap. Just be sure that it does not get heated above 38 degrees C, as this will make it much darker and will also produce an offensive smell.
  • Once you have your milk based lye solution made, all the remaining steps of the soap making are the same as in the recipes provided.
  • Just add the milk based lye solution to your oils and mix until you get a trace.   Once trace is achieved you are ready to add your colours and essential oils. 
  • Divide your soap mixture into two jugs. Add one teaspoon of Ruby Rose Mica  to one of the jugs of soap mixture and one teaspoon of Cambridge Blue Mica  to the second jug. Mix them well.
  • Either by yourself, or better yet with a friend, pour each colour into your silicone loaf mould. at the same time. You will need to pour slowly and with a steady hand. If you pour to fast you will not get the effect you are looking for. You want the two colours to remain separate and not mix together into just one colour. so be careful with this step. 
  • One your soap has been pored you can add extra effect by getting a spoon and using it to swirl the two colours around in the mould. 
  • Cover your soap and let rest for 24 to 48 hours in a warm place to set. Once the soap has set, it can be removed from the mould and cut into bars.  As an added touch you can use a spoon to rough up the top of the soap into peeks as it hardens and even dust the top with a little of the mica you used for colouring. 
  • The cut soap then needs to cure for four to six weeks before it can be used. I always let mine cure for the full six weeks.